Paver Installation Guide

Step one: layout your design

Mark out the area using stakes and string, garden hoses for curves, spray paint, ropes

Step two: base preparation

1. Excavate the area and remove all soils. Recommended to have a total depth of 6" below grade for patios and walkways and about 12" below grade for drive-ways. Remember to add a little room on each side around the borders for edging and later adjustments: Sidewalks - add 6" to each side; Driveways - add 12" to each side.

Start out with a sub-base consisting of a crusher-run or a ¾” size stone: 4” deep for patios and walkways, 10” deep for driveways. For driveways, geotextile is required under your sub-base material. Fill in the sub-base material and level to proper grade slopping for drainage. Compact your sub-base material using either a hand tamper or plate compactor. Mist area with water to help settle this material. You may need to fill in any low spots and repeat compaction process until level.

2. Place screeding guides (such as PVC pipes, wooden dowels, or conduit) that have an outside diameter of 1” down and then apply bedding material such as washed concrete sand. Screed off sand, remove screeding guides and fill in the voids that are left.

Step three: edge restraint

Used to prevent horizontal movement of your pavers or slabs as they may loosen over time if not held tightly together. They are estimated in linear feet and require some type of tie-downs such as spikes or stakes. Spacing of spikes: patios & paths, every 12"-20"; driveways, every 8"-12" Note: Edge restraints are typically placed before installing the bedding sand and concrete pavers. Some edge restraints such as plastic, steel and aluminum can be installed after placing the pavers.

Step four: placement of pavers/slabs

Place the paver directly on the screeded bed. If you are installing circles, fans, or a soldier course (a border of pavers around the perimeter of the area) you will want to place these first before installing the rest of the pattern. A border isn't essential, but adds a crisp, finished look, especially along curves. Click here for directions to lay out a Circle Stone Pak (36 kb PDF).

To achieve straight lines you can string a line over the top of the pavers to help guide you. Start with the longest straightest side of the area to keep lines straight, this will minimize the amounts of cuts required. Work off the laid stone and progressively lay each row until the area is paved. Selecting pavers vertically off the pallet will help to achieve an attractive color blend

Step five: seating pavers

A mechanical tamper can be used to bed down the pavers uniformly. Tamp entire outside edge first, then circle in. To prevent marking up the faces of the pavers, a layer of landscape fabric can be laid across the top.

Step six: finishing up

Sweep clean all debris from the surface of the pavers using a good bristled broom. Apply Techniseal Polymeric sand, and mist joints with water. After 60 days of the installation, apply Techniseal efflorescence cleaning solution and let surface dry for 24 hours, then apply a coat of Techniseal protective sealant.

Notes... techniseal polymeric sand is used to prevent weed growth, resist insects and to help stabilize joints. Techniseal cleaning solution is used to remove any deposits of calcium that may appear as a result of using raw materials. Techniseal acrylic sealant enhances the color, prevents against stains and seals out water.

Things to consider:

• Underground electrical wires
• Water line or sewage lines
• Gas supply lines
• Drainage pipes
• Cable or telephone lines
• Designing your project with straight sides and square corners will simplify installation by eliminating or minimizing the need to cut
• Figure in installation of landscape lighting if used

If you're not sure, call your utilities company or appropriate
service provider before starting your project.

For detailed TECH SPECS from the Interlocking Concrete Paver Institute (ICPI), click here.